What to eat in Chile

Central Chile

Empanada de pino

Baked pastry filled with minced beef and onion, plus an egg and an olive. The reference dish of central Chile and of Pomaire. Contains beef and egg; cheese or vegetable versions are widely available.

Pastel de choclo

Ground sweetcorn baked over a filling much like the empanada's. A summer dish, when the corn is at its best. Contains beef, chicken and egg; a vegetarian version exists but has to be asked for.

Pomaire clay cookware

Not a dish but the vessel: clay pans and dishes change how food cooks and are part of the area's culinary identity. In Pomaire you buy them where they are made.

The coast

Fish broths and caldillo

A substantial fish soup with potato, onion and sometimes an egg. On the central coast and at Isla Negra it is a long-lunch dish facing the sea. Contains fish.

Machas, locos and sea urchin

Shellfish characteristic of the central coast, usual in the coves of Concón and along the shore. Some have seasonal closures, so the menu changes through the year.

Chorrillana

Chips topped with beef, onion and egg, made for sharing. Strongly associated with Valparaíso and with nights out. Contains beef and egg.

The wine valleys

Cool-climate whites

Casablanca was planted for the Pacific's influence, which pushed the valley towards whites and lighter reds. Many wineries also offer a vineyard visit and food, with tasting entirely optional.

Grape must and juices

In harvest season, non-alcoholic versions of the valley's produce appear. It is the natural way to join the table without drinking.

The north and the Elqui

Valley cooking

In the Elqui, fruit, papaya and valley produce shape the table, alongside the area's pisco tradition. Much of what is on offer works without alcohol.

The south, Chiloé and Patagonia

Outside this site's current range, but worth knowing: in the south lamb and potato dishes dominate; Chiloé has curanto, cooked with hot stones underground, and an enormous variety of native potatoes; in Patagonia spit-roast lamb is the reference dish. Almost all contain meat.

Markets, picadas and vegetarian options

A picada is a plain, unpretentious place where you eat well and cheaply; produce markets usually have cookhouses upstairs and are among the best places to eat in any city. For anyone not eating meat: cheese empanadas, vegetarian pastel de choclo, humitas — corn dough wrapped in husk, though they sometimes contain animal fat, so ask — and the huge range of fish and shellfish on the coast cover most meals.